If you like to keep your clubbing underground, then head to Demode - just be ready to brave some of the Madrid's dodgiest dens along your way. The pre-club bar finds its home in what was once a bar de putas, or a hooker bar to you and me. Indeed, its neighbours along the sketchy street Calle Ballesta are still very much in the trade, as the garish neon signs and scantily clad temptresses in doorways attest.
To get inside, you'll pass through a kind of sonic airlock, to be greeted by a sparsely lit dance-floor and bar area that is always packed come the weekends. Some of the city's best electro DJs ply their vinyl wares here every week, and the crowd - a gay/straight mix, most of whom are enjoying the first of the night before heading on to Mondo - go crazy for it. Thanks to the environment, it's not one for the unadventurous, but it's still a good choice for a bit of harmless vice.